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DISCLAIMERS

First, thank you for considering and choosing Wild Bill’s for your concealed carry needs. All of our quality gear is bench made individually and molded by hand for specific weapons or frame sizes. For this reason, only the weapon the holster was made for should be carried in it.

It is understood that the end user is aware of his/her needs, capabilities and training (or lack thereof). Handguns are inherently dangerous tools, and Wild Bill’s assumes no liability for the misuse of any of our products.

REMEMBER: Weapon retention and security are your personal responsibilities, and we accept no liability for these areas.

BREAK IN

Your holster may be extremely tight fitting when you first use it. Break in of the holster can quickly be accomplished by using spray silicone to assist. This is available from most hardware or auto parts stores. (You may also use gun oil.)

First, make sure the weapon is unloaded and the ammunition is stored in a different area. Silicone is very penetrative and can ruin primers. Spray a light coat of silicone onto the weapon (not the holster). If using gun oil, put the oil onto a rag and then wipe down the frame of the weapon, covering it with a light coat of oil.

DO NOT USE saddle soap, mink oil, linseed oil or similar products. They are designed to penetrate the leather and soften the grain. This will ruin the retentive qualities of your holster and void the warranty.

Work the pistol in and out of the holster several times. Start with about 30 seconds (maybe 15-20 repetitions). Put on the holster and attempt to draw the weapon. For outside the waistband holsters, it should take a little bit of a clean snatch to get the weapon to clear the leather. If the holster is still a little snug, repeat as necessary until the desired level of retention is attained.

BEFORE YOU START WEARING IT EVERY DAY

A certain amount of break-in is needed to shape the gear to your body. We suggest wearing holsters for a full day before wearing it in public. This will allow you to get used to the feel of the holster. We also suggest practicing a minimum of 100 presentations with an empty weapon before use. Start slow and let speed come naturally. Finally practice gross body movements in a mirror while looking for those motions that may cause you to “print” or display your weapon so that you can avoid these movements in public. Proper break-in ensures proper function.

LONG TERM CARE

We recommend using a quality conditioner and wax like Zack White's Leather Balm (available here). Once every six months to one year (based on usage and conditions) rub in and buff it off to clean, condition, and protect the leather. This keeps moisture out and the natural oils sealed in to prevent drying and cracking with age.

FUSION PADDLE

For the best stability and security, run the paddle behind the pant, not just the belt. Your Fusion Paddle should come with the angle specified by your order. If you want to change the cant, it is very simple. Both screws in the top holes provides a neutral cant. For an FBI, 15 degree forward cant, remove the front screw (by the sight channel) rock the paddle and set the screw in the lower hole. For a cross-draw cant, remove the rear screw (by the trigger guard) rock the paddle and set the screw in the lower hole. The screws should basically fall into place. If they want to resist at all, back up and try again. They will cross thread and you will have to return the holster for repair. If you are not going to change out attachments or adjust the cant of the holster, use one small drop of blue Loc-Tite (or clear nail polish) in the screw holes to ensure the screws remain secure.

CLASSIC SPEED SCABBARD

The Classic has been called the perfect balance of speed and comfort. Breaking it in on one of our double-thick gun belts has been called less than fun. "Folding over" the slot to provide a straighter shot for the belt to reach the tunnel makes it a little easier. One trick is to position the holster on your belt where it should ride on the hip. With a piece of chalk or something similar, mark the belt where the holster should go. Pull the gear off and put the holster back onto the belt in the marked spot and let it sit for a day. This will help to give the holster some shape.

CONTOUR BELT SLIDE

Do not run the Contour at 3:00 on the hip. The holster is designed to carry your pistol just behind the hip at about 4:00. For easy reholstering, lay the bottom of the muzzle over the opening in the holster and rock the pistol into position.

RADICAL BELT SLIDE

This holster is not designed to run in the middle of the back over the spine. Run your belt through the first slot in the holster, then through the center belt loop on your pants. Pull the holster tight up against that belt loop. Run your belt through the remaining slot on the holster. This should position your pistol about 5:00-5:30 behind the back. It takes a decent amount of practice to get used to presenting from here. This draw is not up and forward like most holsters. You must draw the weapon to the side to present. One trick to speed the presentation is to rotate your hip away from the draw stroke. Reholstering requires laying the top of the slide over the opening in the holster and rocking the pistol in position. It will require a decent amount of practice to reholster quickly and easily.

SUMMER HEAT

This holster features one-way snaps. The only way to properly secure the snaps is to "roll" or "rock" them on from the bottom to the top. The only way to get them off is to pull them down along the same direction of the strap to release the snap. Failure to do so may result in damage to your gear. This holster is designed to run behind the hip at about 4:00. We do not recommend running the holster at 3:00 on the hip. The holster may have a tendency to "taco" too much, inhibiting an easy reholster - plus, it negates any benefit of carrying inside the waistband by putting it on the widest part of the body.

COVERT CARRY

This holster features a spring steel talon clip with a tooth on the inside of the clip. To put the holster on, seat the forward (muzzle) portion of the holster inside the pants and pull out on the tab on the bottom of the clip to avoid scratching the face of your belt. To remove, push down on the holster then pull out on the tab on the bottom of the clip to get the tooth to release the belt. To tuck in your shirt, (while wearing the holster) simply run the shirt tail behind the clip, in front of the body of the holster. It will take some practice. We do not recommend running the holster at 3:00 on the hip. The holster may have a tendency to "taco" too much, inhibiting an easy reholster - plus, it negates any benefit of carrying inside the waistband by putting it on the widest part of the body.

POCKET PACKER

If you cannot reach into your pocket, make a fist, and pull your fist out easily, pocket carry is not going to work for those pants. To present your weapon, establish a grip on the weapon, trigger finger extended. As you draw, once your knuckles clear the pocket, pull back slightly (think "I'm going to shoot from the hip") to get the "hook" on the holster to catch the inside of the pocket and help strip the leather from the firearm. With practice, this presentation is exceptionally fast.

DOUBLE-THICK GUN BELT

When you first put your belt on, you should only be able to get to the 3rd hole from the tip. It will require 2-3 weeks of every day wear to get the belt to start breaking in. At that point you will be able to move to the 4th hole from the tip. The buckles on our belts are interchangeable. Remove the two chicago screws to swap out the buckle. Once the buckle is on the belt you want to leave on it, use one small drop of blue Loc-Tite (or clear nail polish) in the screw receiver to ensure the screws remain secure. Do not roll up your belt! It will break it down and you'll lose a lot of the stability our belts are designed to offer.

CLIP ON SINGLE MAGAZINE CARRIER

This magazine carrier uses the same spring steel talon clip we feature on our Covert Carry IWB holster. The tooth on the inside of the clip is designed to lock securely onto the belt. To remove the carrier, push it down all the way and pull the bottom of the carrier away from the body. Use the side of your index finger to push and the tab on the bottom of the clip towards the body to get it to release from the belt. Twist the mag carrier up and out.

PADDLE DOUBLE MAGAZINE CARRIER

For the best stability and security, run the paddle behind the pant, not just the belt. If you want to change the cant on your carrier, it is very simple. Both screws in the top holes provides a neutral cant. For an FBI, 15 degree forward cant, remove the screw on the right (if wearing on the left hip), rock the paddle and set the screw in the lower hole. If wearing on the right hip, adjust the screw on the left for a cant. The screws should basically fall into place. If they want to resist at all, back up and try again. They will cross thread and you will have to return the carrier for repair. If you are not going to change out attachments or adjust the cant of the carrier, use one small drop of blue Loc-Tite (or clear nail polish) in the screw holes to ensure the screws remain secure.

IWB TUCKABLE MAGAZINE CARRIER

This magazine carrier features a spring steel talon clip with a tooth on the inside of the clip. To put the carrier on, seat the forward portion of the carrier inside the pants and pull out on the tab on the bottom of the clip to avoid scratching the face of your belt. To remove, push down on the carrier then pull out on the tab on the bottom of the clip to get the tooth to release the belt. To tuck in your shirt, (while wearing the carrier) simply run the shirt tail behind the clip, in front of the body of the carrier. It will take some practice. You can also use it as a pocket carrier as well. To draw the magazine, establish a grip on the mag, index finger extended. As you draw, once your knuckles clear the pocket, pull back slightly (think "I'm going to shoot from the hip") to get the top of the clip on the carrier to catch the inside of the pocket and help strip the leather from the magazine.

WARRANTY INFORMATION

Our leather work is warrantied for one year against defects in manufacturing and workmanship. (If something's going to go wrong with it - with normal use - odds are it will be well within a year.) Hardware (paddles, clips, snaps and rivets) has a lifetime warranty.

For warranty work, contact us with details of your gear's malfunction. You will be given specific instructions on how to proceed. If there is a problem with the leather work, we will repair or replace the gear at our discretion. Hardware will be replaced. Warranty work is performed free of charge - however, you are responsible to returning the gear to us.

RETURNS and EXCHANGES

As long as your gear is in new condition you may return or exchange it. (Not applicable for made-to-order items.) You are responsible for getting the product to us and paying return shipping (for exchanges). Returns are subject to a 10% restocking fee. You must contact us prior to sending back any gear.